The Handkerchief

The absolute simplest change that most men can make to their wardrobe to invoke the sartorial spirit is to wear a handkerchief, often referred to as a pocket square. I'm fond of referring to them as handkerchiefs because it implies a useful aspect, and I enjoy utility. There are two main categories of pocket squares, the flashy, silk square that serves as an accompaniment to a tie and the plain white handkerchief (cotton or linen) worn in either a three or four point fold or an actual square that leaves a straight line over the breast pocket.

I dramatically prefer white handkerchiefs in most circumstances, but the former certainly has a bit of panache. The biggest problems with the silk jobs are price and flexibility. A decent silk pocket square runs somewhere around $50, and since you'll likely (and hopefully) match it to your tie you'll probably need quite a few of them. There are pocket squares that are reversible or have slightly different colors on each quadrant, but the level of versatility that this provides is minimal.

Opting for a white handkerchief instead saves a tremendous amount of money and provides a modicum of utility. If your date turns up with a runny nose or running mascara, you have the solution. Perhaps more importantly, it gives the impression that you paid attention to detail without requiring that you paid more than a few dollars to the clothing shop. I have two types that I wear regularly, linen and cotton. The linen handkerchiefs cost about $15, are heavier and naturally stiffer. They're good for the point folds and work in larger breast pockets well. The cotton handkerchiefs are cheaper (as little as $5 for 3), and they can be folded into neat rectangles and pressed with an iron. They aren't stiff (unless you starch them) and need to be folded to be just smaller than the pocket. You can cheat by folding them around an index card cut to just a little taller than the pocket.

Note: Pocket squares do not make up for a lack of neckwear or genocide.