Shoe In

Over the past weeks I've been getting an especially large number of comments and questions regarding shoes. What should I buy? Where should I buy it? What goes with a blue/black/purple-and-yellow plaid suit? Etc. This post should answer some of those questions, and it should serve as foundational advice which will provide you a good "starter" shoe collection.

Some years back Esquire ran an article which suggested that every man should have two pairs of black oxfords, one pair of brown oxfords, a pair of loafers, and an optional pair of white bucks. That sounds shockingly like my grandfather's closet, and also shockingly close to my own with a few modifications.

First, a shoe should have a few basic characteristics. It should be leather, shoe, sole, and heel. Not patent leather or plastic, not some form of synthetic animal mimicry, it should be leather. If you want to save all the cattle in the world or require that horses no longer be allowed to die, then buy yourself a pair of patent leather hooker pumps and scurry off. If you want a nice pair of shoes, get leather. Good leather shoes can be taken to be resoled and re-heeled, and often can even be refurbished by the factory. They might cost more up front, but if taken care of they'll last a long time.

Second, men's dress shoes should have a traditional, rounded toe. If you think that you could stack them with mortar to build a house, forget them. Those chunky square toed things with soles as thick as J-Lo are no good. They look like orthopedic fashion crimes.

Now that we've got that out of the way, let's move into brands. For the wealthier shoe buyer, go to Saks. Find a good sales rep, and say that you'd like to try on every basic oxford from a high-end Italian designer. Try the dress boots too, but stay conservative. Buy one in black, one in brown, and one in cordovan. My favorite pair of shoes is a pair of Ferragamo Riace boots. They're cordovan, and I've never had so many compliments on a pair of simple shoes.

If you're not into spending over $500 on a pair of shoes (which you shouldn't be unless you're rich or someone else is paying), then you can do just fine at a lower level. The problem with the $100-$200 range is that there are a lot of good shoes and a lot of crap. Don't get sucked in by the Kenneth Cole ads. He's a great marketer and a mediocre shoemaker. Johnston & Murphy have gone more mid-range and make a good shoe for under $150. Cole Hahn does the same job. That said, my new favorite bargain is Banana Republic. For years their shoes were gorgeous little torture chambers for your feet. Now Clark's makes them, and they're comfortable, stylish, and affordable. Shop around. Different designers make shoes to fit different types of feet, thus a pair of BR oxfords fit me perfectly while Cole Hahn's oxfords always slip a bit at the heel. When you shop, wear a pair of slacks so you can see how they'll look. Some shoes that look great on the rack, or fine with your jeans, just don't look right with your favorite suit, regardless of color.

As far as decor on the shoes go, think thusly: the more seams/holes/etc. visible, the less formal the shoe. A wingtip with elaborate leather work is less formal than a cap-toe oxford, and a cap-toe is less formal than a plain, smooth lace-up. The cut of the leather around the laces is also key. "Balmorals" are "true oxfords" that have entirely closed lacing (i.e. The leather comes completely together.) "Bluchers" make more of an inverted "V" shape. Balmorals are more formal. All of this is, frankly, a little unimportant for most business attire, and most people wouldn't know the difference. To be safe, a cap-toe oxford is usually appropriate for anything shy of black-tie attire, at least in the South. I have two pair of identical BR cap-toe oxfords, one in brown and one in black. They're wardrobe staples.

Every guy needs a pair of slip-ons. Try for simple. I hate tassels and straps and all of that nonsense. Just get a simple, slip-on leather shoe whether it be a loafer or something in a newer style. I suggest a zip-up dress boot of some kind, as well. They're really versatile, working to make a suit cooler and more casual and really dressing up a pair of designer jeans and a blazer. They're not a must, but they're a great add on. Beyond that we arrive at the "white bucks" part of this post. You don't need a pair, but they can be cool by virtue of their anachronistic nature, especially if you wear light linen or seersucker suits. I wear something of a variant on these. I've got a pair of Steve Madden fashion sneakers that really work with those types of outfits. They probably get worn five times a year, and I'm sure they'll be dated by this summer, but they're fun.

All-in-all, quality is what matters here. Having flashy shoes is fine for dandyish types, but the skill involved in putting alligator skin cowboy boots together with a slacks and jacket combo is beyond the scope of this post. Get the above mentioned basics in your closet to cover the basic needs of a man's wardrobe, then ask about shoes just for Argentine tango.